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Cheese in Germany

From Allgäuer mountain cheese in the south to Ziegenrolle goat’s cheese in North Friesland, Germany is cheese country – and a leading cheese producer. A good 1.8 million tons leave Germany’s cheese factories each year and a third of this is exported. So for the next part of our series on Food in Germany we take a closer look at the food that is normally associated with its neighbors.

Charles de Gaulle is said to have once asked, “How on earth are you supposed to govern a country that has over 350 different kinds of cheese?” If there’s any truth in this, then Germans should be pleased that they only have half as many, but are still among the leading cheese-producing nations. Germany produces the most cheese in Europe, followed by France, Italy and the Netherlands. Surprise.

Cheese itself is an ancient product, but systematic production didn’t start in Germany until the Middle Ages. Monasteries played a major role, and their inhabitants were definitely knowledgeable connoisseurs. They also played an important part in the early development of beer, because this beverage was not classed as a food and so the monks brewed it to keep themselves going during the fasting period. Although they didn’t produce the cheese themselves, they wrote down the recipes for the farmers who couldn’t write. They collected the recipes, lent out cheese vats and implements, and received some of the cheese in return.

People emigrated to Germany and brought their cheeses with them: Tilsiter has Dutch ancestors, Limburger is related to the Belgian Hervé and the soft Romadur is a close cousin of Remoudou. In this way, an internationally influenced variety developed from recipes and regional products that had come across the borders.

The Allgäu is seen as “Germany’s cheese dairy”. Raw milk cheeses, such as Allgäuer mountain cheese or Emmentaler are made from the milk of brown-and-white coloured cows happily grazing in natural pastures. But the rest of Bavaria or the Harz (Harzer Rolle) are also well-known cheese producing regions. However, it’s a neighbour that tops the list of favourite cheeses in Germany: the firm, mild-flavoured Gouda from the Netherlands.

The latest trend is: cheeses produced by small crafting companies and based on ecological farming methods, premium quality products. So it’s hardly surprising that cheese in Germany has long since been regarded as more than just something you put in a sandwich. A generation ago, a fine meal in upmarket restaurants used to be followed by the arrival of cheese trolleys stocked solely with produce from France. Today’s selections are dominated by domestic cheeses providing obvious proof of their quality.
(source:young-germany.de)

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